Climbing with Mike and Val has been an adventure. We had originally set ourselves up to climb on October 11, 2011. One thing got in the way: the birth of my son, Ryan! So, we rescheduled and Sunday was the first date that jived with our calendars! We covered some basic climbing movement, rope handling, belaying, and then onto rappelling. We even did a stellar route and rappelled off.
Thanks for a great adventure, and I eagerly await your return!
Karin, her husband Andy and I headed over to the Trapps on Saturday. Karin is working on her AMGA SPI skill set in preparation for her SPI Exam. We did some review, Andy got to climb a bunch, and Karin got to practice her skills.
Thanks for a great time despite the drippy quartzite down low!
Some required work to make St Johns Upper Ledge climbable again. No more hang fire. Thanks to RMG, the Wilderness School, and the Mountain Workshop for the manpower and logistics.
I’ve been busy and haven’t broken the camera out as much as I’d like. Sometimes it seems right, other times, it’s just too much to deal with. I feel as though pulling out the camera sometimes ends in shaky film and poor belaying! But, not always.
I headed back out Saturday with another fun group of 4. Jim, James, Cathy and Mike all registered for a Self Rescue course, and I framed it the same way as I did the previous week with a concept based model. Cathy and Mike had never done much self rescue practice, so they got exposed to scenarios that they might encounter at their skill level- climbing up a rope, tandem rappels, hauling and rappel back ups. James and Jim, on the other hand, being the rock stars that they are, got a whole world of poo passed to them. If you could only imagine! Down, up, stop, repeat, down, now I’m taking your cordelette away, up again, down for time with limited ‘stuff’, haul back up, etc……
Hitching a ride…
A different perspective on the cordelette.
Alpine Clutch or Alpine Crutch? You decide…
Teamwork to figure it out.
- 3,2,1 Pull!
Simple solution to haul your partner.
Fighting Friction!
Whoa! A 5:1 really is easier!
This Saturday evening at 5pm-6pm, join me in the Uberfall at the Gunks for Saturday Night Live. This week’s topic is anchors: Top Rope and otherwise. Bring your questions. I’m pleased to offer a time to share and increase the odds of your success. Here is the poster (copied from my friend Ryan Stefiuk’s website, www.bigfootmountainguides.com). We look forward to seeing you then.
http://bigfootmountainguides.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/FireShot-Pro-Screen-Capture-009-Free-clinic-1_pdf-application_pdf-Object-bigfootmountainguides_com_wp-content_uploads_2012_05_Free-clinic-1_pdf.jpg
This past weekend I spent one day teaching a modern self rescue program to six local climbers. This concepts course was designed so that these climbed would have opportunities to practice rescue skills to enhance their climbing abilities. We looked at rappel back ups, tandem rappels, climbing ropes (fixed lines), hauling your partner from above, releasing plaquettes, mule hitches, and then some more mule hitches. Thanks to Sethu, Skip, Jere, Dave, Janet and Gary!
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- Fresh Meat!
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- Janet saving Gary
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- Load transfer options
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- Complex?
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- Dave hauling away
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- Favorite things: Sterling Marathon 10.1mm, and the Gri Gri 2. Power tool for self rescue!
We got some space still on Memorial Day and a last minute opening for this SUNDAY! Get in touch, the weather is still perfect for rock climbing!
We had a great day climbing at the Gunks! We were awarded an authorization (permit) to operate there this season, and we’ve been having a great time. It truly is a world class destination area.
On another note, keep your eyes on www.gunks.com climbers forum for a series of free clinics called Saturday Night Live. Local guides have gotten together to provide some food for thought for climbers after a number of accidents in the Gunks this season. Best part, they are FREE!
Over the course of two days, I had 4 candidates successfully complete and pass the exam. Day one is a skills day. Candidates arrive and are asked to demonstrate a number of instructor level skills to the examiner. On day 2, I brought in a number of guests for the candidates to instruct for 5 hours. They taught a number of lessons, executed a rappel, set up some top ropes, and managed risk to provide a sound entry level experience to these guests.
Matt, Jonathan, Keith and Justin were all successful! Congratulations!
Munter Mules on the Master Point!
Matt Shove
